The end result is a mold to use for casting translucent silicone into for use in my beatseqr project, as a replacement for the hand-cut-and-sanded acrylic buttons that I’m currently using. You never know how an experiment will really go until it’s over, and now that this experiment is over, I’ve learned a lot and will make a bunch of adjustments:

1. change the silicone product from tap plastics platinum cure translucent (way too wobbly for this application) to smooth-on sorta clear 40. I saw this product at the Maker Faire this past weekend and really liked the firm quality of the cured product. I think it will be a really good candidate. Smooth-on dragon skin 30 was my second-best candidate.
2. cut a new button mold using the techniques I’ve learned by doing this one.
3. adjust the height of the button to be not as tall as this test.
4. adjust the flashing surrounding the buttons to be not nearly as tall. I had it set to be 0.1″ tall, and that’s probably 0.08″ too much. all I need is for it to basically be thick enough to keep all of the buttons together, and that’s it.
5. think about how to diffuse the LED light going into the button… this new silicone is water-clear… so … I’ll need a way to adjust that quality so it looks good. maybe just a sheet of paper under the silicone flashing… we’ll see how that goes.

So… progress continues. I’ll post the result of the next prototype when it’s done.

And then I’m into all kinds of new new new new stuff thanks to my training at Techshop. Here’s some acrylic test pieces. I’m over the moon on the cut quality on these. I have some fairly big ideas that I’m going to try out on this front.

Here are some larger hardboard abstracts that I’ll be sealing and painting. I’m so excited to be able to get this level of precision into my build quality. Once I paint them, I think that will be a nice combination of machine precision and human imprecision :

And then we’re working on a mobile for our coming addition to our family. Here’s the first pass at the cast of characters. I output these at 100% of the design spec, but we both agree that I can redo these and bump up the size. A lot. Although, I’m totally shocked at the fidelity to the design that the combination of the laser cutter working on the 1/4″ hardboard can reproduce. I probably just got lucky with where I put the holes and how much space I added around them.

check out the detail:

Note the circles at the white arrows. No problem at all. Every one of the holes I put into the pieces produced a clean 1/4″ thick hardboard peg. I love this machine. It’s freakin’ awesome.

Technorati Tags: art, epilog, fine art, techshop

I would highly recommend taking some classes there. The instructors are nice, and the environment is really conducive to exchanging ideas and helping each other learn. I’ll be starting up my month long membership next week! I’m very excited to get in there and get some stuff done!

Technorati Tags: cnc, cutter, epilog, laser, milling, plasma, TIG, techshop

So, some history… Last year I got the crazy idea to build a projector from scratch, using an LCD screen and a 400 watt bulb. This isn’t really anything new or innovative, I used the tried and proven designs from Lumen Lab to achieve the results I had originally planned for. After the projector was built, I needed a screen to project onto. I’d already spent waaaay too much money on the project as a whole, so I needed a screen solution that would be:

• cheap cheap cheap to build
• easy to locate materials, or reuse stuff I already had
• free standing and structurally stable
• knock-down construction so I could assemble and disassemble it as my needs required.
• big when assembled
• compact when disassembled
• reusable for other purposes (more on this later)

So, with these goals in mind, here’s the solution I came up with:

materials and approximate costs:

• four “2×2″ studs, these are about 8 feet long, and cost about $2 each.
• four shelf brackets for the feet, 2 on each side. This cost can very widely, but maybe call it $4 each. This is even debatable.. you could just just whatever 90 degree brackets you have lying around. Or just run 2 or 3 screws into the bottom on the side legs into the feet and skip the brackets altogether. I ended up using two shelf brackets and two 90 degree steel brackets.
• length of PVC pipe. It’s cheap, easy to work with, and light.. sort of. – $8ish
• a little bit of hardboard for the u shaped holding things for the PVC – $free – $5 for a quarter sheet
• Various woodscrews, 8-32 machine screws, washers, and wingnuts, maybe $5 total in hardware
• a canvas tarp. I got mine from home depot along with the rest of the materials, and it has a nasty sewn seam across the middle of it. Not ideal, but again, I’d spent a bunch on everything else, so I decided I could live with a seam in my canvas screen. $10-ish
• finally, I used acrylic gesso on the tarp for two reasons. One is to fill the small gaps in the woven fabric, and two was to make the natural tan canvas closer to a white color. You could go completely bonkers on finding the right combination of primer, base coat, and reflective additives to cover your screen.. I just went with gesso. I had a bucket of it sitting right in my garage already. $optional

These construction details are more intended to be a guide than strict instructions. In fact the only major things I remember about the design decisions I made were that I’d have it be 6 feet tall, which would leave me a 2 foot long foot from an 8 foot tall 2″x2″ board. Also, I decided that I’d make the crossbar widths as big as I could to get the biggest 16:9 ration screen out of the 2x2x8 boards. So, if I have a 4 foot tall side from the top to the cross bar, that puts my width at like 7 feet 2 inches or something like that. Oh well. You get the idea. 16:9 good.

I had an extra length of PVC with a little room to spare, so I came up with the u shaped brackets to hold onto the PVC pipe off the back side of the top. It works really well, but you could probably achieve the same results with a couple of cloth straps looped and screwed into the top of the side pieces… in fact, I may end up changing it to that kind of system so that I don’t have to worry about the special shapes I cut out of hardboard breaking in transit to or from a gig. I just grabbed the edge of the tarp and screwed it into the PVC pipe with some short self tapping screws. Doesn’t have to be insanely secure, just enough to make sure it doesn’t rip apart and fall off the frame.

Lastly, I decided that I’d so with half-lap construction and use 8-32 bolts, washers, and wingnuts so that I could assemble and disassemble the frame easily and quickly. It’s all very cheap hardware, again, stuff I already had lying around. There’s very little on this design that’s “hardcoded” together, so it does break down to a small, if long, space.

Here are some more photos:

This is a detail photo of the foot construction:

Half lap joinery, at the crossbar:

8-32 bolts, big washers, and wingnuts on one of the top corners:

Here’s the canvas rolled up on the PVC and sitting in the u-shaped cradle brackets I made for this purpose:

Here it is, torn down and strapped together with some cloth straps I sewed together and used with some quick-disconnect clips. It’s leaning up against my garage door, so you may identify some of the door’s anatomical things in the photo…

and finally, here’s a rendered image of what it looks approximately like from the front when you have the screen extended to near the floor in “4:3-ish mode”… 16:9 mode can be achieved by only extending the canvas down to the crossbar.

And of course since I’m showing you 3d renders from Sketchup, you can grab the models from the 3d warehouse:
Exploded construction view and assembled view.

So far I’ve used the screen a lot at home in my garage, and taken it to a few gigs, and it’s done very well. Hopefully the design will inspire you to make a version to suit your needs. Let me know if you found this useful.

Technorati Tags: diy, LCD, make, maker faire 2007, makerfaire, makerfaire2007, projector, screen, sketchup, stevecooley

Since I can’t get my act together to build this any time soon, and since I did this design a year and a half ago, I figured I might as well put it out there since I’ve seen two new teleprompter ideas lately.

Technorati Tags: teleprompter

ok, here’s the link to the 3d warehouse sketch up file … man, that is cool what they’ve done with google and sketch up. Proper respect.

Oh, go check out my main blog Some junk we like.

Hey, Jono says that Google Sketch Up for the Mac is out!

I’ve created and uploaded a model of the workbench I’ve made 3 times for my workshop at home to the 3d warehouse. Download and create your own workbench today… for cheap!

Oh, yeah, here are the links to the 3 movies I made while making said workbenches.

http://homepage.mac.com/djcatnip/iMovieTheater24.html

http://homepage.mac.com/djcatnip/iMovieTheater18.html

http://homepage.mac.com/djcatnip/iMovieTheater27.html

http://trumpy.cs.elon.edu/metaverse/gst364Win2005/handout.pdf

alternate download link

Technorati Tags: academia, second life